Vietnam Part 2

We arrived in Phong Nha around ~9.20pm and our first full day was spent getting the lay of the land and working out what tours to do.  Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park is a Unesco World Heritage site (since 2003) and contains the oldest karst mountains in Asia, formed ~400 million years ago.  It's got hundreds of cave systems (including the largest in the world discovered in 2009) so there was no doubting we'd end up in one.

The town is super cute and people extraordinarily friendly.  The main drag is surrounded by limestone hills and greenery and the pace here is a little slower (it's ridiculously hot at this time of year so also not surprising).  

We settled on the Paradise Cave and Phong Nha Cave tour and were collected at 8.50am.  First up Paradise Cave, which is 31.4km deep.  After a short buggy ride and good walk up ~600m we reached a small entrance to get in.  This opens up to a huge cave that is 80m high and 120m wide at it's largest point (within the 1km you get to walk).  It's a dry cave full of amazing (and huge) stalactites and stalagmites.

After lunch we boarded a Dragon Boat for a ride to the entrance of Phong Nha Cave (which is a river cave).  The river ride is awesome, and once at the cave entrance the boat goes a further 1km in without the motor (strenuous paddling going on by the boat skippers), and includes a 300m walk before the boat ride back to town.  Again amazing and the water (both the river, but particularly within the cave) is so clear you can see the bottom and it's so cool and refreshing to the touch.  Limited noise and impressive formations.

Next day some decisions were made about the itinerary as we decided to stay in Phong Nha a bit longer to do another excursion.  We used the day for lots of exhausting exercise (so hot!), and enjoyed watching the locals enjoy the cool river whilst sipping on a couple of well deserved beers ourselves.

We've hit the pool each day we've been here and it's the least cooling or refreshing we've yet come across - it's 38 degrees so the pool is like a very warm bath!

The second excursion was back to Phong Nha Cave but kayaking and hiking further in to the depths.  We collected some 'sexy' walking sandals (good for wet, swimming and rock climbing as it turned out), and after getting the appropriate safety gear we were off.  After dodging Dragon boats for the first 1.5km into the cave we went another ~500m in.  It was amazing - so peaceful with no noise other than paddles hitting the water and helmet lights showing us the way.

Then it was walking time and another ~1.5km of rock hopping, whilst enjoying the scenery in a much more relaxed and quiet mode.  We stopped at the end for a refreshing swim in the cave river whilst those that wanted to douse themselves in mud did so, before heading back and having some fun in the 'cave lake' - swimming and jumping off rocks into one of the most beautiful swimming 'holes' we have ever experienced.

On the way back we stopped for lunch (inside the cave), where pre the Vietnamese civilisation, some Cham people lived, leaving some of their writings on the cave walls.  A short paddle, walk inside to view the formations closer to the entrance, and then back in the kayaks, we broke out into the sunshine.

Am amazing and really enjoyable day, followed of course by beers in the garden bar and a delicious dinner.

Final day in Phong Nha, more exercise and some last minute photos (including a large monument to the heroes of the Ho Chi Minh Trail at the entrance to the town).  Phong Nha played a key part in the trail, as did Phong Nha Cave, that served as respite from the bombing and included hospitals and residences.  The rest of the day was pretty relaxed whilst we readied ourselves for our cabin sleeper night bus to Hanoi (~9 hours).  Phong Nha is another place that should definitely be on everyone's Vietnam visit list.

After 7 hours, 45 minutes (and quicker than we thought), we arrived in Hanoi.  The bus trip was okay and we did manage to sleep a bit in between drop offs and a few bumps.  We arrived at 5.10am.

A quick taxi to our accommodation, where the night staff were still sleeping in the reception area, we dropped our luggage and ventured out for a walk.  We headed to the centre of the Old Quarter, Hoan Kien Lake, where it seemed half the city were exercising.  There was even a 'fun' run going on (5, 10, 21 or 42km).  It's a peaceful oasis and we took our time walking around it and soaking up the new atmosphere.

Still too early to check in we headed to Hoa Lo Prison.  The prison was originally used by French colonists for political prisoners (built 1886-89), and later by North Vietnam for US POWs during the Vietnam War (fair to say the Americans appear to have been treated far better than the Vietnamese were by the French).  The Americans referred to the prison as the 'Hanoi Hilton', which we can assure you it was not.  As always, harrowing stories but another piece of the puzzle that is Vietnam's history.  Little of it remains today and what is there now houses the museum.

The afternoon consisted of finding a sports bar to watch the All Blacks play South Africa, and packing for our next adventure.  Hanoi is a base for us now as we will come and go a few times, first to trip for 3 days, 2 nights to Ha Long Bay, Lan Ha Bay and Cat Ba Island.  Feeling very tired we did manage a whiz around the streets and night market before calling it a night.

We were collected around 8am and ~2 hours later we arrived to a bustling port, where many tourists and boats were being organized.  We headed out on a small boat to the large one we were to stay on, taking around 30 minutes and giving us our introduction to the large limestone formations that make this area famous and Unesco recognised.

We cruised Ha Long Bay for a couple of hours taking in our new surroundings and beautiful scenery before mooring at Lan Ha Bay where our kayaking adventures began.

Almost 5km kayaked marveling at the views (and the jellyfish!), with some swimming thrown in, before heading back under the setting sun.  The early evening and tranquility was quite beautiful.

Back on board we got a quick lesson in Vietnamese spring roll making (which we did also get to eat at dinner time), and then some R&R on the boat, whilst those that were interested went squid fishing, (or octopus observing as one of the other guests put it).

It was about this time we were advised of a pending typhoon (first of the season).  Vietnam Maritime were about to order all ships into harbour and cancellation of tourist cruises within it.  It meant our 3 days was turning into 2, so we missed the hiking day and second night on the boat. Still felt very lucky we got to experience it all with a good half day still to come.

Up bright and early we headed into Cat Ba Island, jumped on bikes and rode ~10km to Viet Hai village and back.  Again very serene, beautiful scenery and a glimpse into the simple ways of life.  

This is where the excursions ended, so back on the big boat for lunch and return to harbour, then bus back to Hanoi.  The cruise was well worth doing to see one of the jewels in Vietnam's crown.

Back in Hanoi we settled into our running and exercise routine whilst planning the last couple of main things we wanted to see, the Ho Chi Minh (HCM) Mausoleum Complex and 'Train Street'.

The next day we walked the ~2km to the Mausoleum Complex which is made up of botanical gardens, monuments, memorials and pagodas.  The things we came to see were Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum, his Stilt House, the Presidential Palace and One Pillar Pagoda.  

Vietnamese flock here to see HCM's embalmed body (something he didn't actually want), but the building was closed today so views from the outside only, and the guards that stand at arms.

The stilt house is actually where HCM lived as he wished to connect more to the humble and traditional life of his people (as opposed to living in the Palace).  The grounds were lovely and a peaceful escape from the chaos of the city.

Last stop was the one pillar Pagoda.  This one is reconstructed but the original one and the Pagoda alongside were built in 1049.  They are beautiful and so elaborate inside.

On the way home we stopped at 'Train Street'.  Lined with coffee shops and residences this 'lane' has a main railway running right through it, and unlike Thailand it is a working railway.  We enjoyed a pit stop here and were blown away (literally) by the speed of the train passing.  Definitely no slowing down just because it is a place of interest.  Was a great place to hang out before making our way back, another 20,000+ step day!

The next day saw us heading for Sa Pa.  We arrived around 8.30pm and wow, not what we expected at all.  Thinking we were heading to another small town, this one thinks big and with bright neon lights everywhere looked alot like the Vegas strip.  We opted to save our exploring for the morning.

On one side of our hotel is the road to 'Sapa-vegas' and the other the serene green and misty mountains.  We went on our usual exploring walk to get the lay of the land heading into the town square and past the Sa Pa lake.  There are views everywhere if you get a sneak peak around the buildings, and we are looking forward to our trek tomorrow to get out of the hustle and bustle (it is packed with local tourists here and very busy).

Highlight of today would have to be happening across the marketplace.  What amazing sights and smells, particularly the wet market, the biggest plums we've ever seen and beautiful people.

Our trek was to take in the Muong Hoa Valley, and our guide was Moo (23 years old and part of one of the minority hill tribes that live all around this region).  The walk is over broken ground, village pathways and some roadways.  We descended into the valley dropping 487m and only climbing 146m over the entire 10km.

Leaving the city you get some amazing views but as you walk it gets greener and more spectacular, as well as full of photo opportunities.

We discovered, and walked through, 100 year old rice fields still going strong (everywhere), and walked down the hill to Y Linh Hồ, a village of the Hmong minority.  Life is simple and hard work, and nearly all the rice paddies and vegetables we can see growing is to feed the families of the hill tribes only (they do not grow enough to sell).  

After a brief period of climbing, we found ourselves descending again towards Ý Linh Hồ village, home of the Black Hmong minority.  From there we then arrived at Lao Chai and stopped for lunch at a local restaurant alongside the river.  Lao Chai village, is a famous village in Sa Pa and after lunch we got a rundown on what they do with the corn and hemp, used to make material items and clothing (again all very manual), before walking through the village to continue our journey.

From here it was onto and through a much smaller village, Ta Van (Day people minority group), before finishing up ~10km later.  

We were lucky with the weather as no rain was to be seen and feel privileged to have witnessed a very special glimpse of the hill tribe life, and the beauty of the valleys that surround Sa Pa.

Next day we decided to hire a driver and visit the two waterfalls of note in Sa Pa.  They are roughly ~15km out of town and up around 1900m.  The first was Love Waterfall.  It was a pleasant and pretty walk through the trees/forest to the river that led to the waterfall.  The water was crystal clear and cold but didn't stop some of the local tourists going for a dip.  Round trip (walk) was about 75 mins.

Next up the Silver Waterfall.  Closer to the road but worth the entrance fee ($1.36), and the second lot of numerous steps.  These falls are ~100m from top to bottom.  Both waterfalls were worth the visit.

On our final full day in Sa Pa we visited 'the roof of Indochina'.  Fan Si Pan mountain at 3,143m, via funicular train (1.7km) and cable car (6.3km). The cable car has the highest vertical climb between stations (1,410m) of any 3 rope cable car system in the world, and we were well and truly above the clouds. From the drop off point we had ~600 stairs to the summit.

Amazing views (when you get them) of the valleys and jungle below.  The clouds made for a serene visit and came and went so quickly around us.  There are pagodas, a giant Buddha, lady Buddha, towers, a 9 level waterfall and the summit.  All man made to make the most of a beautiful and unique location.  Well worth the visit and a great way to finish our time here.

The rest of the day we spent in a restaurant overlooking the somewhat clear valley (cleared by the torrential short burst of rain just experienced), and a view of Fan Si Pan unlike we had seen during our time in Sa Pa.

One more drive back to Hanoi for our last night before our Vietnam visa expires.  The country has been a gem to visit, incredibly diverse and a unique mixture of traditional cultures and the new more modern blend.  One to add to the list.

Next stop Laos.