Summer of Discovery - Sweden (25 July-14 August)

Lots of big travel days in Sweden as the country is so big so we opted to cross at the top of the country, in Lapland, and work our way down – sounds simple but this time of year there are less connections.  We crossed the border at Tornio/Haparanda and that included a couple of decent walks, three buses and a train trip.

Our first destination was Jokkmokk and after sorting an accommodation hiccup we ended up in a room overlooking a beautiful lake and forest.  Gary’s birthday and delicious dinner at Krog Lokal, a run, first Swedish swim, walk around the lake and visit to the botanical gardens – the upper part of the country is all about nature (and the Olympics has started so bits and pieces of that too), although we did visit the Ajjite museum also (about the Sami people, native to Lapland).

We spent three different days on Inlandsbanan (the scenic train), the longest being 12 hours (the other two much shorter).  Scenery very green and very watery – there are so many lakes you quickly lose count.  The scenery is beautiful and during our time in Sweden we had to stop for Reindeer and Swans crossing tracks!

 

Next stop – Ostersund, on Lake Storsjön, which is the fifth largest lake in Sweden (464 km2).  It's a beautiful spot with a lovely 'big' town, and huge square.  The lake front looks over to Froson, an island (and ski field) connected by bridges. 

 

Here we visited Jamtli, an indoor-outdoor historical record of Sweden.  One piece of note was the Viking Tapestry dated 900-1120, which is in amazing condition as well as taking a walk outside through time and the historic buildings (1785 to 1975).

Our time here included a waterfront run and a big walk over to Froson, passing a marsh/bird sanctuary and then hiking it to the top of the ski field for amazing views.

The following two places were on our scenic train route – Orsa and Mora.  The first we were in a large 1908 home that we almost had to ourselves and back to nature it was about walking around and taking it all in, passing a huge camping ground and lake beach, walking a boardwalk through the estuary and taking in all the beautiful buildings.

 

Mora was a larger town surrounding another lake but with a beautiful waterfront.  It’s famous for the Vasaloppet, which is the world’s oldest long distance cross country ski race (90km).  Back to exploring – lake walks, beautiful buildings and lots of statues, including the Dala horse, and where we started our introduction to the Vasa dynasty (Swedish royalty dating back to 1523).  Everything here is old, although not to the same extent as Denmark, yet anyway.

Mora’s other gem is Anders Zorn (1860-1920), a very famous Swedish Artist and his house (1910) is still there now a dedicated museum, thanks to his wife.  His studio dates to 1292, making it one of the oldest wooden buildings in Sweden.  The town is very picturesque and cute, easy to get lost in without getting lost.

Next up was Uppsala.  Our train, which should have taken three hours got stuck on the track due to trouble elsewhere, so we arrived 3 hours and 20 minutes later than planned.  A few things to see here, the first was Gamla (old) Uppsala.  An important Viking site, but more than that is the history that dates back to the 500’s, called the Vendel Period, the main attraction being the 6^th century Royal mounds (burial).  When the Vikings came along they believed their three gods were buried here – Odin, Freyr and Thor.

Also on this site the 12th century Church of Old Uppsala (1164) at the time the largest in Sweden.  What we see today is what remained after a fire in 1240 destroyed 2/3rds of it (the wooden sections) and the incredible vaulted ceiling, was a marvel for the time.

 

Uppsala Fact:

After the fire in 1240 destroyed most of the Uppsala Cathedral (now the Church of old Uppsala), the people questioned whether to repair and rebuild on the existing site.  Eventually they decided that Ostra Aros, a small village about 5km away with a river running through it, would be a better location.  They sought permission from the Pope for the move, which was approved, but not wanting to do the paperwork involved in a new name for the new Cathedral, the Pope advised that the village and Cathedral would have to be called Uppsala, thus the current site and Church became Gamla (old) Uppsala and Ostra Aros was renamed Uppsala, as it remains today.

Next site back in Uppsala was the Cathedral (built 1270-1435).  Its full of the tombs of Kings and Queens, and even having seen many Cathedrals, this one still had ‘wow’ factor. 

 

The 1841 Carolina Rediviva (Uppsala University Library) holds a library exhibit with written examples from 515BC, the first exhibition case alone covers the period 515BC to 1499AD.  Amongst the many incredible works were an original 18th century score of Mozart’s and the oldest piece in the library, being the Middle Eastern Cuneiform text from Persia (515BC).

The prize here is the famous Codex argenteus or Gothic 'Silver Bible'.  Originally written in Ravenna, Italy, it is a 6th century manuscript, containing a 4th century translation of four gospels into the Gothic language.  It's cover is silver and it's written entirely in silver and gold ink. 

Finally, the Uppsala Castle built over different periods. The large pink building is the result of multiple extensions in the 16th and 17th century, but ultimately the result of a rebuild after the 1702 great Fire of Uppsala.  Also included was the Botanical gardens, originally in the Castle grounds, and the original mid century fortifications (ruins).  We walked  home via the city garden.

A quick stop on Vaxholm/Resaro to experience the Stockholm Archipelago, and Swedish sea swim.  Total relaxation in a quite but beautiful spot.

Last stop in Sweden, but certainly not least was Stockholm.  What an amazingly beautiful city waterfront.

Sites included The Royal Palace in the old town, on a separate island, called Gamla Stan.  The Palace is quite simple to look at but amazing on the inside.  Even managed a glimpse of the changing of the guards (and musicians playing ABBA tunes).  The highlight here was the Armoury (founded in 1633) and filled with relics dating from ~500 years ago.  The oldest objects on display date back to the Vasa Dynasty, with Gustav Vasa's helmet the oldest, dated 1548.

Next stop was the Riddarholmen Church, the final resting place of the Swedish royalty.  With the one exception of Queen Christina, all succeeding rulers of Sweden from Gustav II Adolf (d. 1632) to Gustaf V (d. 1950) are buried in the Riddarholmen Church, however the oldest king’s burial dates from the end of the middle ages 1470.

 

One final stop on our Palace tour, was the Three Crowns Museum, dedicated to the original Tre Kronor Palace, that was destroyed by fire in 1697.  A two hour boat tour around the harbour comprised our afternoon and completed our day. 

The following day we visited the Vasa (ship) museum.  Commissioned by King Gustav II Adolf, the ship took two years to build, completed in 1628.  On its maiden voyage that same year, with 445 on board, it sunk only 1.3km from the launch site.   It lay on the bottom for 333 years before being salvaged, largely intact.  This ship is the only one in the world from this period preserved and is quite a sight to see.  The magnitude of its size is hard to capture in photos!

As you do in Sweden, we visited the ABBA museum.  A bit of fun and learning about the bands journey was light relief, from all the reading and museums.  The saying here is 'walk in and dance out'.

We visited the Hotorget Market Place, an historic site (16th century) where peasants used to bring hay and straw to the King's 'Barn' and the 1888 Östermalms Saluhall (food hall).  A beautiful building, renovated back to its 1888 former glory, where we took too many photos, and could have spent a fortune had we not been leaving the next day!

Our final day was a relaxed walk around the Gamla Stan, its beautiful, predominantly 17th century buildings, narrow cobbled lanes and cute squares.  The old town really is picture book and a popular place to visit.  A hidden gem is Järnpojke or Iron Boy (in English known as the 'little boy who looks at the Moon'), at only 15cm high.

What we will remember about Sweden:
Forests and forestry
Millions of trees
Lakes and water everywhere
Lapland quiet
Moose
Lake houses
Apple trees
The Archipelago
Stockholm city waterfront and harbour
Beautiful buildings
Vasa Dynasty
Cost
Bathroom drains
Government controlled liquor stores
Can refund stations