Portugal - Part 1 (the North)

Two trains, some time in the airport lounge, a flight and transfer later, we finally arrived at our accommodation in Porto, Portugal, at 12.30am, and are here for four nights.  Getting very tired we made a quick call to Mum McGregor to wish her a happy 93rd birthday, and then it was definitely time for some shut eye.

A slow start to the morning as we get over yesterdays big travel day and the late night, as well as giving Gary some time to get over the UK cold he acquired.  The Portugal planning then really began as we started looking at how we will move around the country.  We are in high season, and going from semi-off season in Asia to high season in Europe takes some getting used to, in terms of the $$ being spent.

We decided to go for a wander down to 'Mercado do Bilhao'.  The fresh produce market has been the centre of Porto for over 100 years and takes up an entire city block.  Now modernised and somewhat tailored for tourists, we had a good look around, bought some strawberries and had lunch before heading back.  It was amazing how many people there are around, the city is alive with activity.  Initial points of note - the cute streets, cobbled roads and tiled houses and buildings.

Gary had a quiet afternoon while Lesley headed off to find a supermarket for drinks, cheese and crackers (that we enjoyed later in our little garden area).  In the evening we walked back towards the old part of town, had a lovely dinner in what appeared to be another very old building, a nice bottle of wine (finally) and a quiet night.

 

Big day exploring today as we headed out to do the two Lonely Planet walking tours.  We were lucky with the weather as it was only 25 degrees (as opposed to the 27-28 of yesterday).  First impressions when you hit the historic part of town - it's like you've stepped into a giant mosaic.  Everything is cobbled and tiled and wherever you look there is an amazing building or view from the past.

We headed first to the city's historic library.  The tickets were selling for late that evening so there was no going in, but almost alongside was the Lion Fountain, then the impressive 'Igreja do Carmo', built in the first half of the 18th century.  Inside the church is beautiful, there is a hidden house, catacombs, vaults filled with Church jewels and narrow stairwells up to the roof where the views are fantastic. 

Onwards past a park and bar on the roof, covered with ancient olive trees, and then to the 76m high clock tower 'Torre dos Clerigos'.  We passed several other amazing and ancient buildings on our way to 'Miradouro da Vitoria', where we got our first glimpse of the river Douro, and the gorgeous views across the Old Town.  

Thank goodness for good shoes, as we walked more old cobbled streets and dodged many tourists, on our way to Sao Bento Train station and its 20,000 hand painted tiles that fill its Gallery.  Quite a site.

From here, on to the Cathedral 'Se do Porto', originally built in the 12th century in the Romanesque style.  It underwent improvements in the the 18th century Gothic period and alongside is the Bishops palace 'Paco Episcopal'.  Opted not to go in due to the very long queues.

As we walked down the hill we got to the impressive 10m high Fernandine Walls of Porto.  Part of the old city walls, this medieval wall dates back to the 12th century.  A very impressive sight.

Before heading any further it was time for a refreshment stop.  High above the river it was a great spot to relax for a bit and watch the world (and hundreds of tourists) go by.  It's energising to feel part of the travelling vibe again.

It was then time to walk down to the 19th century Arched Iron Bridge 'Ponte de Dom Luis 1', for great views of the river and old town on both sides, and Gary's highlight of the day.  We followed the winding cobbled pathway to the river and the oldest part of town. Very special and another highlight.  As we walked the old alleys you can only imagine how the place looked hundreds of years ago. 

Breaking out on Rio Douro (the river), and even more tourists than we've seen to date, we opted to find a small roadside bar to relax and soak up the atmosphere, and of course have an ice cold beer before the 2.4km walk home via the supermarket (dinner in tonight).  A fantastic day and no doubt that the Rio Douro and surrounding historic areas are the jewel in Porto's crown.

After yesterday's mammoth effort we decided to take things a bit slower today, as we intended to head to Vila Nova de Gaia (the other side of the river effectively) in the afternoon.  We caught the metro, had a quick look at the views from the park (Jardim de Morro) and headed off on a ~6km walk up the river.

We passed many of the new and old bridges that span the river including the 1877 (Eiffel) rail bridge, passed the 'city' beach, the marina and walked up as far as the Palace.  On the way back we stopped for refreshments at a little cafe by the river, and enjoyed the shade and the views.

Back in the thick of things we decided to do what you do in Portugal, which is visit one of the many Port houses.  After walking a bit of the old town's cobbled maze, we headed to Taylor’s Port House and enjoyed their 'Introduction to Taylors' five wine flight.  It consisted of Taylor’s Chip Dry White Port, Late Bottle Vintage Port, Vintage Port 2009, Quinta de Vargellas Port 2015 and 20 year old Tawny Port. Lesley not ever really having drunk or enjoyed tasting port before was plesantly surprised and they were all enjoyable.  The setting was picturesque and we were accompanied by a hen Peacock and her three chicks in the garden. 

Back to the waterfront we checked out a rooftop bar for more views and a drink with the 'hip' people before heading down to river level for dinner, catching the last of the sunset.  Then were headed back up the hill one last time to catch the metro and and walk the final stint home.  Another good day, 20,000+ steps and 70 floors! 

First moving day within Portugal saw us on the metro and then bus to Braga.  The bus took only an hour so was all very quick and easy in the end.  After settling in we headed to the historic centre (becoming a theme already) to the information centre and into the square for a late lunch.  

We aren't looking to do anything specific here today but moving around the old centre, was like doing a walking tour without the guide.  Everywhere you look there is something old, wonderful or spectacular and seems Braga is very much sticking with the cobbled and tiled everything theme.

Slow start to the day choosing not to venture out until after 12 noon.  We headed up to the old town to follow our own walking tour (combination of Lonely Planet and the Info Centre advice).  The old town, or historic centre, is impressive.  Around every corner and often directly in front of you there is something spectacular and historic to ogle at.  Braga, originally Bracara Augusta, was founded in 16BC, making it Portugal's oldest city.

There are tourists but a much more relaxed feel here, and certainly not as busy as Porto.  It has a really nice vibe.

We started with the old fountain 'Fontanario da Rua Andrade Corvo' (1742) that once upon a time would have been part of the town supply for water, then the impressive 'Arco da Porta Nova', the 1772 gate to the city and fabulous main walking street.

'Camara Municipal', the town hall, that was started mid 18th century and finished mid 19th century, was next, and then the beautiful gardens behind that with ancient arches.  Not far from here (actually most things are pretty close), the large 'Largo do Paco' (old Seat of the Republic remodelled in 1723).

Across the road the is the impressive 'Se Cathedral', 11th century with a 15th century facade.  It is the oldest Cathedral in Portugal and is beautiful in so many ways, with the most impressive pipe organ we have ever seen (and we've seen a few!).

Still walking, we arrived at the 16th century 'Capela dos Coimbras' (Chapel and Tower), which was originally a Palace, and then needing refreshments stopped for lunch before entering the beautiful 17th century 'Igreja de Santa Cruz' (the Church of Santa Cruz).

 

Mandatory photos of Budget and the Braga sign, as well as the 18th century Hospital (now a hotel), before the final stretch.  Might be the best looking hospital we've ever seen!

After another quick visit to the info centre we passed 'Igreja dos Congregados' (Church of the Congregation of the Oratory), and then on the way home spotted a tower we had not seen that looked very medieval.  'Torre de Menagem' is the remaining tower from the Braga Castle, which was demolished in the 20th century.

What a fantastic place to visit, so much to absorb with history and beauty everywhere.

The next day we really had only one other thing to explore, the sacred hill where 'Santuario do Bom Jesus do Monte' stands.  We caught the local bus to the Church (1784-1857), as it's ~5km out of town and up a very large hill.  You can actually see it in the distance from Braga old town and it's one of 'the' places to see here.

On the way to the bus stop was passed the beautiful 1754 'Palacio do Raio' with its eye catching tiled front.

We arrived at Bom Jesus around lunchtime and then climbed the 577 stairs to the top, stopping frequently to take in the view and for photos.  It was a beautiful walk up.

At the top we found a beautiful wedding taking place (in such an amazing Church and location), so spent some time wandering around and watching proceedings.  

At 1.00pm Portugese time it was Lesley’s NZ birthday, so we stopped in the garden for a beer and to take in the spectacular location.  One more look around before heading back down to the bus and back into town.  The late afternoon was spent relaxing, before heading out for dinner in the old town and prepping for moving day tomorrow.

As we traveled to Vila Real the scenery quickly starting turning more green and the land more rural.  If rice paddies were a thing in Vietnam, vineyards and corn crops are 'it' here.  The roads were fantastic, with many sensational viaducts and a 5km tunnel, as we started getting closer to the Douro Valley and it's numerous gorges.

A ~10-15 minute walk from the train station found us at our hotel and there were certainly no complaints from us.  The room had a balcony that overlooked the Rio Corgo gorge with a pretty view, and the hotel had a great pool and gym, which we've been missing.

After settling in it was a walk to the supermarket and familiarization with our new surroundings, before a restful afternoon, bubbles on the deck, and then out for Lesley's birthday dinner.  We had a lovely dinner and good wine (we are kind of winging it as the variety of wine here is very different to home). Albeit a moving day, it has been a good one.

Not surprisingly a slow start to the next day, but we were keen to get back into our exercise routine.  The day was effectively a 'travel/tourist' rest day, but we managed a swim and a gym workout, as well as a walk around town, and time planning the next couple of stops.  Also got introduced to the hotel parrot!.  A whole bunch of cycling tour trucks turned up in the afternoon but unfortunately we didnt get to see any action.

Wine tour day in the Douro Valley.  The Valley is noted as Vale do Inferno (Valley from Hell), due to the heat, and is the oldest demarked wine territory in the world. The earliest known plantings and wine making was done by the Roman's in 3BC.  

One of the things that makes this wine region so unique is the incredible terracing that goes hundreds of metres up from the river.  In many instances there is only one row of vines on each terrace.

It was an early start as we were off at 7.15am on the bus to Peso da Regua (Regua for short).  Our wine/day tour starts at 10am so we have time for a short walk and breakfast before we have to be at the pick up point.  Initial impressions - very pretty town, overlooking the river and terraced vineyards in all directions.

Our first stop was Porto Quinta do Tedo, a small and 100% sustainable winery that has been in operation since the 18th century.  They are boutique and very small, producing 70,000 bottles per year, with everything done by hand (or foot when it comes to crushing grapes)! 

In addition to the vines, they have 800 olive trees, growing and bottling this also.  It's a really cute place, with beautiful buildings and history, perched on a great spot overlooking the river.

The barrels they use for the Tawny Ports are 500l French Oak, and when they are finished from a wine perspective are shipped away to be used for Whiskey and then ultimately Rum. The Ruby Ports are stored in impressive 7000l barrels. 

To end the tour we moved onto tasting, trying their Rose, Tawny and Late Bottle Vintage ports, all of which were delicious.

The visit was followed up by a lovely 3 course lunch (with more wine) at the River Restaurant, located in the old storage sheds that have been converted into restaurants and wine shops in Regua.

Next up was a bit of a drive to our river cruise starting point.  We spent 35 minutes on the boat cruising the Douro River.  It was great to get a different perspective of the vineyards and terracing that lines the banks and hills.

We learned a lot about the area and how things used to be and are done now.  In times gone by the port barrels were sent down the river by boat.  It took 2 days to get to Porto fully loaded (downstream) and 5-7 days to get back, due having to fight the flow of the river.  Nowadays everything is shipped by train.

Our final stop for the day was Croft,  established in 1588.  They have 109 hectares of vines, with the oldest being over 100 years old (the plantings followed a phylloxera epidemic at the end of the 19th century which devasted crops in this area).  Another absolutely stunning spot.

Harvest here is due in 3 weeks which is 15-20 days earlier than the traditional harvest date, due to the great season they are having. They are expecting a great vintage this year.

Here they pick by hand (as all do in this region), and crush using a mixture of feet (the Vintage Port) and machinery. They have an 1868 barrel that holds 5000l and vats holding up to 50,000l.  The whole Douro Valley is under strict regulation, one being that no-one is allowed to irrigate.

We tried their Rose, Ruby and Tawney Ports.

We got back to Regua at 5.45pm, so went for a hour or so wander alongside the river before stopping in at a wine bar and finding a Chardonnay, to toast Gary's Dad's birthday, and some picky food.  Our bus back to Vila Real was at 9.15pm so we had plenty of time to relax.  Another superb day.

The next day was another non tourist day.  Thinking we were having a rest day it ended up with another swim, gym workout, and 4km walk down into and through the gorge below us.  It's clear they are beautifying the area and it was a lovely walk (with hundreds of stairs up and down), before we headed up to the city streets. 

We found a beautiful church and cemetery overlooking the amazing views, so wandered around before heading back to the hotel.  Managed to spend some time in the sun to top up the tan too!

Back into the heart of the Douro Valley we headed back to Regua on the early bus.  The plan today is to head up to the end of the valley on the train.  The first section was from Regua to Pinhao. 

Noted as the prettiest town in the Valley, it truly is really cute.  We walked through town, alongside the river and crossed the bridge to see the town from the far side, and watch the river cruises go up the valley.  The views are spectacular as are the vineyards surrounding the little town. 

Next section Pinhao to Tua.  We stopped here for lunch upon recommendation of the tourist centre.  What they should have told us was to book!  The stop was nice, but limited to 2 restaurants and our first option being fully booked meant we were forced to discover the lovely, incredibly friendly, family run 'Beira Rio Restaurant'. What a find!  Food was good, beer and wine were great (first bottle of Mateus for either of us), and the interaction with the amazing family team was exceptional.  Enough English to help us order and the constantly checking in to make sure we were good was very special, and memorable. 

A quick walk along the river back to the train (now in 37-38 degrees), and on to the next leg to Pocinho, effectively the end of the tourist train line.

More amazing views of the river and the vineyards.  You would think it's getting repetitive by now, but no - it is all very special, particularly when you see a port house you recognise, as their Port is sold in NZ.

This is definitely the 'hell' (on fire) end of the Valley.  Now 39 degrees it's so hot you don't quite know where to put yourself, and we are melting in the shade.

Final leg from Pocinho back to Regua.  The trip back was everything we had seen in reverse with the exception of the changing light.

Back in Regua at 6.40pm, we headed over to the river, and stripped down to go for a swim (so hot we couldn't have cared who was watching!).  Thankfully the cooling effect worked and our bodies started to get back to normal.  Back to the previously visited wine bar we enjoyed lots and lots of water, along with a glass of wine and cheese board, before heading back to Vila Real on the 9.15pm bus.  A big day but another very special and memorable one.

Our last day in Vila Real was made up of another swim, gym and admin/plan day as we readied ourselves to move again.  On the way out to dinner we checked out the Vila Real 'Se' Cathedral (originally built as a convent in 1424) on the main square, and then in one of the gorgeous narrow cobbled lanes we happened across Igreja de S.Paulo (1639-1740).  

Finally time to say goodbye to Lesley's beautiful flowers and Vila Real.  It has been a fantastic place for us to base ourselves from, to check out the Douro Valley, and if the north of Portugal is anything to go by, we are in for a treat as we visit the rest of the country.