Summer of Discovery 2024 - Finland (14-25 July)

We arrived in Helsinki at 9.05pm on the 14th July and stayed for 4 nights.  After a train ride and short walk we arrived at the hotel, and quickly ventured out to find food, and as it happened the Euro football final.

Helsinki is a lovely little city and is covered in parks and statues.  

The main sites we saw were the Helsinki Cathedral in Senate Square, which was somewhat under renovation (built 1830-1852), the 19th century (1868) Uspenski Cathedral, the Orthodox parish of Helsinki (also the largest Greek Orthodox Church in Northern Europe), and the oldest building in Helsinki, 'Sederholm' (1757).

We visited Suomenlinna Island by ferry getting to see the many little islands on the way, as well as the 1748 Swedish built fortress.  On its own island we visited the 1854 Orthodox Church and the surrounds of the church which included the 1885 bell, Swedish cannon barrels and chains built in 1850, previously used to close the sea inlets.

Also on the island was the tomb of Augustin Ehrensvard (died 1772), who designed the fortress, and the old artillery placements and underground bunkers.  We visited the Kings Gate (built 1753-1754) and walked around the edge of the island taking in the views.

Back on the mainland other places of note in the centre - the market square, 1889 Old Market Hall, city 'beach', railway station and the modern Stone Church.

We walked our legs off most days just meandering around the city, taking in the 1873 Winter gardens, views of the 1950 Linnanmäki amusement park, viewing the grand 1901 Tull & Packhus (Customs & Packing House), and heading to one of their most popular beaches, Hietaranta, even managing a swim.  The swim was a surprise as is the unexpected heat (25 degrees).

Upon recommendation we also visited the top floor (13th) of Torni Hotel.  We treated ourselves to a glass of Champagne and a beer (likely the most expensive glass of champagne ever, once converted back to NZ$), and enjoyed the great views of the city.

On our way to walk the waterfront we passed by the 1891 Saint John’s Church with its twin steeples. Set in leafy grounds with a blue tinge inside, it's quite special.

Our next destination was Rovaniemi, which is all about Santa, the edge of the Arctic Circle and nature (a 1.5 hour flight north).  Everything is Santa something here (e.g. Santa's Donar Kebab).  Visiting the most authentic Santa weve seen in his 'Lapland home' was really enjoyable.

We walked the Ounasvaara nature walk, over the mountain across the river (that looks like a hill covered in trees).  It's actually their urban ski resort when it's not summer hiking trails, and we stopped on one of the highest point ramps for lunch.

It snows September to May and would be amazing - with all the winter trimmings and activities thrown in.  Lapland is also home to more reindeer than humans, and we are looking forward to hopefully seeing them further north.

Another inner city beach on the Ounaskoski river and time for another swim followed by a few beers on the opposite bank.

We had a great couple of meals in Rovaniemi, including the best Gary has had since we left home.  Albeit hard to get your head around the prices once converted, we are starting to look at things in their dollars.

Our last destination took us even further north (256km) to Saariselka (85km from Russia).  Well inside the Arctic Circle now and here is definitely about nature and Reindeer (in the wild).

The 22nd July was apparently special, as officially there was 10 minutes of darkness.  The sun set after midnight for ~1½ hours, but it doesn't get remotely dark.  The midnight sun is still a thing, albeit not high in the sky.

Our first sightings of Reindeer were on the bus, then we were greeted by a number of them as soon as we got off the bus.  We organized ourselves to do a couple of trail walks (Iisakkipaa nature walk and Kaunispaa), over our two full days here and spent our spare time catching up on admin and Reindeer spotting.

The walk scenery was pleasing (although not like NZ), with the occasional small rocky gorge or a bubbling stream a pleasant break from the trees and the low ground cover shrubs. The couple of Reindeer we encountered were the highlight along with the views from the top of the fell, until we saw the most magnificent and beautiful Buck towards the end of our second walk and last full day.

The other surprise, again, was how hot it is (not normal apparently) with temps hitting 27 degrees.  Luckily (as there always seems to be) a small lake was set up as the beach and swimming point and we swam there 4 times (certainly first swims in the Arctic Circle!).

Finland is the shortest stop in Scandinavia (11 days), bookended by Denmark and Sweden, but no less rewarding.

Things we will remember:

A land covered in millions of trees
Reindeer
Lapland lakes
Santa
Never-ending light
Swimming in Lapland
Man made city beaches

Weird drains
Fells and nature
The 'not normal' hot weather
Wildflowers
Kahu – the 'bear' beer