If you thought you needed coffee for the last blog you might need a bottle of wine for this one! Feel free to skip the text if you're not into it but at least take a look at the photos - Galapagos is something else...
We arrived in Quito put our clocks back an
hour and taxied to the old town about 50 minutes’ drive away. After
settling in at the hostel we went for a wander around town to familiarise
ourselves with our new surroundings and the key sites as we’ll be returning
after Galapagos. The old city is very quaint and cute with lots of
stunning landmark buildings that we’ll be checking out when we’re back.
Day 1: Santa Cruz – Playa de la Estacion Charles Darwin (Conservation centre) Day 2: Isla Isabela - Puerto Villamil (including Volcan Sierra Negra)
Day 3: Isla Isabela - Punta Moreno and Bahia Elizabeth
Day 4: Isla Fernandina - Punta Espinoza and Isla Isabella - Caleta Tagus
Day 5: Isla Santiago - Playa Espumilla and Puerto Egas
Day 6: Isla Lobos and Isla San Cristobal Interpretation Centre
All our food and itineraries
are sorted on board so it’s a very relaxed atmosphere. Each day consists
of a combination of landings, walks, snorkelling and kayaking. Of course
there’s the swimming off the back of the boat to cool off (and a Jacuzzi on
board if you feel like it). Every day provided crystal clear waters,
clear skies and hot sun so we certainly have nothing to complain about there.
The wildlife also hasn’t disappointed at all, some of what we’ve seen …
Giant Saddleback tortoises
Giant Dome tortoises
Galapagos Sea lions
Galapagos Fur seals
Marine Iguanas
Yellow Land Iguanas
Red Marine Iguana
Lava lizards
Golden Rays
Eagle Rays
White tipped sharks
Black tipped sharks
Galapagos sharks
Ghost crabs
Sally Lightfoot crabs
Blue Footed Boobies
Frigates
Flamingos
Flightless Cormorants
Great Blue Herons
Galapagos Hawk
Galapagos Penguins
Galapagos Mockingbird
Golden crowned Night Heron
Lava Heron
Oyster Catchers
Sandpipers
Giant Saddleback tortoises
Giant Dome tortoises
Galapagos Sea lions
Galapagos Fur seals
Marine Iguanas
Yellow Land Iguanas
Red Marine Iguana
Lava lizards
Golden Rays
Eagle Rays
White tipped sharks
Black tipped sharks
Galapagos sharks
Ghost crabs
Sally Lightfoot crabs
and about 30 (at least) different species of fish
And many different birds that included but was not restricted to:
Blue Footed Boobies
Frigates
Flamingos
Flightless Cormorants
Great Blue Herons
Galapagos Hawk
Galapagos Penguins
Galapagos Mockingbird
Golden crowned Night Heron
Lava Heron
Oyster Catchers
Sandpipers
Whimbrels
Darwin Finches
Darwin Finches
By far the most of what we’ve seen above the
water are the Sea Lions, Marine Iguanas, Blue Footed Boobies and Sally Lightfoot
Crabs. The Blue Footed Boobies are expert fishers with an 87% success
rate (compared to the Pelican at only 30%) and stand out with the most amazing
coloured blue feet - the bluer the better when attracting a female. We’ve
also seen them underwater when snorkelling as they dive at up to 80km/hr to
secure their catch – quite amazing. We got to snorkel with Sea Turtles,
white and black tipped Sharks, Sea Lions and Eagle Rays - the Eagle Ray Lesley
saw one day was at least 2-3m wide and it was about 4-5m away - as close as
Lesley was prepared to get. The fish, turtles and sea lions however were
welcome to get as close as they liked.
The Marine Iguanas are
everywhere and thriving for the most part, sharing their habitats with the much
smaller Lava lizards, who are much more "shy" and plenty of Sally
Lightfoot crabs that are blessed with spectacular colouration. The Iguana
behaviour is interesting to observe as they are quite often alone, but just as
often in large "cuddle" groups. They get up to 1.5m in length
(the largest measured) but for the most part they were around 1m or less and
even much smaller baby ones were scattered in amongst the adults. They
are quite cumbersome on land (although am sure can run if they need to) but
very agile in the water not using their legs at all to swim, and relying solely
on their very strong tale. There were a couple of islands where the temperature
is substantially higher than normal this year which is creating a problem with
the algae food source. It is found deeper than normal searching for
cooler water, and too deep for some Iguanas and seals which is having an
adverse effect and causing starvation. It’s obviously evolution but
extremely sad to see and monitoring is taking place in some places to observe
and measure the impact.
The Giant Tortoises were
something else. They are absolutely huge weighing up to 250kg and living
for 150 years+ (Lonesome George is the most famous being the last of his kind
and 102 years old at the time of his death). We saw them in conservation
areas where they are protected and breeding is managed via breeding centres to
ensure the continuation of the species. The breeding centres have many
babies from 1 month old (about 15cm long) and housing adults in wildlife reserves
(similar to their natural habitat). They enter the more free roaming
reserves at around 5/6 years.
Thankfully for the most part all species we’ve seen are thriving and it’s been an amazing cruise. Each day was very special with new species being seen, new behaviours being witnessed and new activities for us. Day five was memorable as we landed on Playa Espumilla to see numerous Sea Turtle tracks up and down the beach where they've come ashore to nest. As we wandered around viewing the tracks we had a real treat as a mother was still digging her nest and laying. What an effort for such a large heavy animal - they can grow up to 1m in length and weigh 150kg. Quietly and with enough distance we got to witness a really special event and before we left the beach.
We finished the tour in the Interpretation Centre on Isla San Cristobal which was far more interesting that we may have initially thought. The Centre takes you through the history of the Galapagos - the penal colony, the hunting of wildlife, the stress on the ecosystem, Ecuador wanting to rent/sell the islands and the international community stepping in - a raft of events that have put the Galapagos through an awful lot. The Islands became a National Park in 1959 and in 2007 Unesco declared the World Heritage listed islands of the Galapagos as being "in danger". We are extremely lucky, given the past that these Islands and their inhabitants exist for us to see. We can hope and pray that the world and Ecuador continue to, and increase, their protection of them.
After saying our goodbyes we found a hostel on San
Cristobal and set about what to do for the next couple of days. We spent
the afternoon walking out to La Loberia where the snorkelling is meant to be
good. The beach was very picturesque but what we didn't realise is that it's
also a surf beach - and today it was very much a surf beach with 3/4m waves
breaking - so we opted to sit and watch the surfers (as well as iguanas and sea
lions) as opposed to risking any snorkelling. It was a nice relaxing afternoon.
Thankfully for the most part all species we’ve seen are thriving and it’s been an amazing cruise. Each day was very special with new species being seen, new behaviours being witnessed and new activities for us. Day five was memorable as we landed on Playa Espumilla to see numerous Sea Turtle tracks up and down the beach where they've come ashore to nest. As we wandered around viewing the tracks we had a real treat as a mother was still digging her nest and laying. What an effort for such a large heavy animal - they can grow up to 1m in length and weigh 150kg. Quietly and with enough distance we got to witness a really special event and before we left the beach.
The Sea Lions
in Galapagos are pretty special and you just about see them everywhere - in
fact the most populous place we've seen them so far is on the pier and shore of
Isla San Cristobal. They are completely unconcerned with people or boat
traffic and when they're in the water you could watch them for hours.
They are really playful and inquisitive and an entertaining way to spend
some time. We even
had one decide the back of our boat was a great place to have a bit of a rest
and a scratch. It's safe to say the Sea Turtles and baby
Sea Lions have most definitely stolen a place in our hearts.
We finished the tour in the Interpretation Centre on Isla San Cristobal which was far more interesting that we may have initially thought. The Centre takes you through the history of the Galapagos - the penal colony, the hunting of wildlife, the stress on the ecosystem, Ecuador wanting to rent/sell the islands and the international community stepping in - a raft of events that have put the Galapagos through an awful lot. The Islands became a National Park in 1959 and in 2007 Unesco declared the World Heritage listed islands of the Galapagos as being "in danger". We are extremely lucky, given the past that these Islands and their inhabitants exist for us to see. We can hope and pray that the world and Ecuador continue to, and increase, their protection of them.
We spent the
next few days on Santa Cruz. After catching a 7am speedboat ferry from
San Cristobal we arrived early and had breakfast before finding somewhere to
stay. We ended up at Hostal Gardner which was fine and settled in, then
spent an hour or so refamiliarising ourselves with Santa Cruz and booking a
couple of day excursions. That afternoon we visited El Chato Ranch where Giant
Tortoises roam freely. We've seen quite a few Tortoises now but this
place is amazing - they are literally wandering free and quite surprising
(different to the breeding centres) they are quite solitary, spending their
time eating grass and wallowing in the mud. They were also substantially larger
here than we've seen to date - the biggest at least 4 1/2 feet in length.
They are a little more sceptical of people here but the 2m distance still
applies - it's actually so close you can hear them breathing. It's been
really special to see them in their own space and environment. To top off
the Tortoise visit we actually saw three of them on the way home - these ones
completely wild - there are even Tortoise crossing signs on the road to make
sure people look out for them, especially given they are not the speediest of
species.
Our
first day tour excursion is to North Seymour Island. A bus took us from
the town to the other side of Santa Cruz to board a boat for the next
leg. We arrived in North Seymour about 90 minutes after being collected.
First we walked around the island viewing the wildlife - first, yet never
least, were the super cute baby sea lions, then it was Frigate birds
aplenty. They nest here so there were lots of family groups including males,
females and chicks - the males are quite stunning with dark green/blue feathers
and trademark red throat. Clearly the attraction method is working here
as the species is doing really well. The main point of this excursion to North
Seymour is to see the yellow Land Iguanas and we were in for a treat. We
saw about 10 different Iguanas although they must be shy as there is a
population of ~1400 on the island. They are much more solitary than
Marine Iguanas who tend to be seen in large groups and those we saw were very
much on their own, mostly camouflaging themselves amongst the rocks and
cacti. They are larger than their Marine cousins and wonderfully
coloured. Next was a snorkel for about an hour around the edge of the
Island. We were treated here too seeing multiple beautifully coloured
species of fish (the small and the large), a large White Tipped Shark. Then to
Bachus Beach back on Santa Cruz for a beach pit stop, and sea turtle spotting.
A perfect day in what is becoming typical Galapagos 30 degree gorgeous weather.
Our
final organised excursion saw us heading to Isla Floreana. Floreana is a
2 hour boat ride from Santa Cruz and has a population of ~200 people so is very
quiet. When we arrived it was a short 20 minute walk to La Loberia (Sea
Lion Colony) for some snorkelling and more sea turtles than we’ve seen to date
in one place. At least 6 of them swimming and feeding in the area plus a
Ray thrown in for good measure. We then started heading back towards the
black sand beach and our first and only Red Marine here we also snorkelled with
Galapagos sharks. After lunch we hopped on the bus/truck to take us up
into the highlands to Asilo de la Paz. In the distant past Floreana was
unfortunately a tortoise hunters dream and subsequently the species on the
island is extinct. They have a refuge here for tortoises that have been
bought to the island but due to the conditions not being natural for them they
are not breeding here. It is likely that the Tortoises time on Floreana
is once again limited. Floreana is where the first Europeans settled and
the first native resident was born here in a cave in 1933. Another great day
bringing our Galapagos Island hopping number to 9 (Baltra, Santa Cruz,
Isabella, Fernandina, Santiago, San Cristobal, Lobos, North Seymour and
Floreana).
2 more
sleeps to go we spent our last day visiting Las Grietas. A short taxi
boat ride and a pleasant 15-20 minute walk past a small residential area,
beach, mangroves, lava rocks and huge old cacti trees we emerged as Las
Grietas. It’s pretty stunning and is a large crevice in the rocks that
stretches some way and is filled with beautifully clear sea water.
Arriving reasonably early meant it wasn’t too busy and we swam from one end to
the other – some rock negotiation required as the pools although connected by
water are separated by rocks. It’s a stunning place and one that is best viewed
(and photographed) from the rocky walkway along the top, providing well placed
viewpoints to see the stunning clarity of the water below, especially with the
sun shining on it. A great way to finish our time on Galapagos.
We
departed, sadly, on the 14th March and headed back to Quito. With a
couple of nights here and two days to fill we spent the first doing a short ½
day tour and went to 4 different places in and around Quito. The first
being Pululahua 17km out of Quito which is a viewpoint overlooking the
Pululahua volcanic crater and a protected geobotanical reserve.
Pululahua is one of only two inhabited volcanic caldera in
the world and the only one cultivated by its inhabitants - the crater looks
like a patchwork quilt of green. Second stop was Templo del Sol which is
a museum and recreation of an Incan temple with pre-Columbian stone relics and
carvings. Next we headed to the Middle of the World – Intinan Museum and
Mitad del Mundo. The Intinan Museum is apparently the “true” middle of
the world, about 200m away from the official monument at Mitad del Mundo.
Either way we’re at Latitude zero and some experiments we did at both places
are indicative of that. The first being to try walking down the equator
line with your eyes shut and arms out for balance – balance almost impossible
as with each step each side of the equator it’s doing its best to pull you
towards it. Second up came draining water – on the equator line it goes
straight down the plug, 2m to the right and it spins one way to drain and 2m to
the left it spins the other. Last but not least was getting a raw egg to
balance on the top of a flat head nail. Sounds impossible but if it can
be done anywhere it can be done here – and Lesley managed to prove the fact a
couple of times.
Mitad
del Mundo is the official “middle” and is a small tourist city set up around
the centre of the world monument. Nice views from atop the monument and
lots more of science experiments to try your hand at on the inside.
Next
day (and last) was a bit of a combined taxi/walking tour around the old town –
first stop El Panecillo – the angel is sitting atop a 3,016m peak and overlooking
the old town of Quito. She is 45m tall and made from aluminium. The
madonna virgin is unusual to other madonna icons around the world in that she
has wings and the statue shows her in movement. Taxi to the other end of
town to Basilica del Voto Nacional. This Basilica is the largest
neo-gothic Basilica in the “new world” and is absolutely huge from the
outside. It was begun in 1892 and took nearly 100 years to complete,
blessed by Pope John Paul II in 1985 and inaugurated in 1988. From there our
walk took us around the city and past some major sites, lots of churches and
squares. The extended city around us is huge and from atop the monuments
and hills you get great views of the picturesque colourful dwellings as well as
the mountains that surround you in every direction. We have seen only a
snippet of Ecuador (lots of the Galapagos), but are happy with our time here as
we look forward again to our next destination.
Best moment – Seeing our first
colony of Blue Footed Boobies
Worst moment – Organising our trip to Punta Pitt to see Red Footed Boobies and having it cancelled due to lack of patrons
Most special – The place in our hearts we now have for baby sea lions and sea turtles and the sea lion that decided to call the back of our boat home
Most surprising – Swimming with sea turtles, sea lions, rays, flightless cormorants and boobies all in the same day
Silly moment – renting a go pro and using it the wrong way around. Lots of videos of Lesley snorkelling!
Worst moment – Organising our trip to Punta Pitt to see Red Footed Boobies and having it cancelled due to lack of patrons
Most special – The place in our hearts we now have for baby sea lions and sea turtles and the sea lion that decided to call the back of our boat home
Most surprising – Swimming with sea turtles, sea lions, rays, flightless cormorants and boobies all in the same day
Silly moment – renting a go pro and using it the wrong way around. Lots of videos of Lesley snorkelling!
Things we will remember about
Quito in no particular order…
The Altitude -2,850m
The massive hills and the deep urban valleys they have created
Geographically separated suburbs km’s a part
The stair ways
Being above the clouds
The local bus stations
Colonial buildings
The Churches
00.00.00 Latitude – the middle of the world
The Altitude -2,850m
The massive hills and the deep urban valleys they have created
Geographically separated suburbs km’s a part
The stair ways
Being above the clouds
The local bus stations
Colonial buildings
The Churches
00.00.00 Latitude – the middle of the world
The
Galapagos:
Wildlife,
wildlife, wildlife
A
National park since 1959
World
Heritage site since 1978
An
Archipelago of 19 Islands
The
Archipelago consists of 7,880 sq. kms of land within 45,000 sq. kms of Ocean
In
the Pacific Ocean 906km from mainland Ecuador
A
local population of 26,640 (at 2012)
The
equator runs through the islands
The
islands were all created by multiple under sea eruptions
The
Galapagos see the convergence of five ocean currents
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