We loved Cusco the first time we visited and we were quickly
reminded how enjoyable the old city can be - it is one of our favourite cities
and it most certainly has not lost any charm; it holds an emotional attraction
for us. We felt right at home and very much in the same city we
stayed in in 2010.
In a couple of days we managed to get some chores done
including holes in clothing/travel packs fixed, a haircut for Gary, and a plan
of attack going forward.
Before leaving we managed a half day excursion outside
of Cusco city and headed into the Chinchero region. The
landscape changes quickly and all of a sudden you are in green countryside that
looks like a patchwork quilt, all different shades of green and colours
depending on what the farmers and locals have decided to plant. We went through
the small town of Maras, on the way to our first stop - Moray. Moray
is a huge tiered structure created by the Incas and was used for cultivating
crops. It's quite something with huge walls and stone steps
built in as well as channels for irrigation. From there
we headed to Salineras - large salt terraces with 3000+ salt ponds that are
owned and managed by different families - each one having up to 10 ponds; they
receive 50 soles (NZ ~$20) for every 50kg of salt they generate.
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| Libertad Jungle Lodge (accommodation) |
After dinner it was time to go Caiman hunting (Amazonian
crocodile) - the Black Caiman which can get up to 4.8m has been chased out of
the region by locals so we're out looking for the Spectacled Caiman - quite a
bit smaller and very very shy.
We were out in the boat, in the dark, for a while, with
Larry Caiman spotting at the front of the boat. We
did get to see a very small one and got relatively close, but as they are 98%
under the water all you really get to see is the beady eyes. We
had the second fish of the day jump into the boat (literally - no need to go
fishing) which in the dark was a little unnerving, but definitely the most
special part about this evenings trip was the sparkles all around us - hundreds
of fire flys that look like shooting stars and glow worms lighting up the water
was like gliding down the Amazonian Milky Way - a really special evening.
The night time bought out all the bugs and the loudest
thunder I think we've ever experienced. Lots
of lightning and rain meant the river was a little higher and things a little
more damp.
Nothing really dries here as the humidity is so extreme. Today
started with Sloth spotting.
Decked out in long pants, sun shirts (need long sleeves
to protect from mossies) and gum boots we looked a real treat. We
headed out in the boat across the channel to the protected reserve on the other
side of the river.
Onto land (very wet land) Larry led the way with his
machete cutting a track to get us closer to the trees. We
saw two sloth mothers with babies, they are extremely cute.
The afternoon consisted of monkey spotting which was
pretty successful, seeing three species being the night monkey, monk face monkey
and squirrel monkey.
It was quite something seeing them in their natural
habitat and jumping large distances from tree to tree amongst the top branches. One
more excursion before dinner before our day is done, and that is the
tarantulas.
We headed out in the dark to the other side of Libertad
village and into the long grass - that was freaky enough in the jungle! Not
far in on the large trees Larry spotted our first tarantula, which apparently
was a baby and only about the size of Lesley’s hand. Not
far from there were 3 more.
Not being so fond of spiders Lesley was pretty keen to
get the photos and get out of there, opting not to have one put on either of
us, which is an option if you're keen.
On our jungle tour we have been just off the Amazon River
on one of the major feeders and the environment is certainly different to
anything we've ever experienced, and one to be respected. On
the trip back we got to the convergence point of the two major feeders and the
beginning of the Amazon river itself, although locals believe it starts a long
way before this point. From here it travels 7,500km to the Atlantic Ocean.
The trip back took ~3 1/2 hours and after freshening up
and dropping off the laundry (necessity at this point) we went for a wander
around old Iquitos.
This Iquitos is very different to the one we saw prior to
our jungle tour - the big busy city. This
side is very basic, very poor and frantic with people. The
market was close to, if not the most basic we've ever seen and the combination
of heat and filth made it very interesting. Thanks to the rain the dirt roads
were muddy, covered in tarpaulins so very hot, and inside the stalls with fresh
produce, meat, fish and everything else imaginable, shared their space with
dogs, cats and vultures - not a recipe for success in our books. It
was a real eye opener, as were the living conditions. There
is a large population of Iquitos living on the river in pole houses where there
is little, if any, infrastructure. If
they are lucky enough to have two stories it is likely that the bottom one is
only used in dry season and is underwater the rest of the time. The
people however seem happy enough and go about their business just as we would. This
is their way of life, simple and happy, however it really does make you
appreciate how lucky we are.
Our departure came early due a protest in town where they
planned to block all traffic in and out of the city this meant that we had to
head to the airport at 11pm for a 5am flight and a long night.
Best moment – Canoeing down the river in silence listening to the sounds of the jungle and the incredible reflections
Worst moment – Lesley getting eaten alive on the last day of the Amazon trip
Most special – Realising
that we have a real connection with Old Cusco
Most surprising – A
fresh market surpassing all others for its simplicity
Things we will remember about Peru in no particular
order…
In Cusco:
The Altitude and hills
Beautiful old Cusco
The Square and Cathedral
Narrow roadways and cobbled
Streets
In Iquitos and the countryside:
Fresh markets
Wetlands
Stilt Houses
Open sided houses
Thatched roofs
Kids working
Huge Palms
Road markings being
painted by hand
Tuk Tuks
Simple living
River Houses
Mangey dogs
Road side markets /
stalls
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